From ralphw@satcom.whit.org Ralph Whittaker

As I understand it, if you fire brass in the same barrel all the time then it is best to fire form it then just do neck sizing from then on. I'm confused about how to do neck sizing. Do I use the full sizing dies or can I pick up dies that are just for neck sizing.

Look to your favorite reloading supply company for a neck sizing die. Keep an eye on the case length after a few firings, cases tend to stretch after a while.

I neck-size only one caliber and that is my 7mmTCU. Of course, I must use the full length sizer when opening the .223 brass to 7mm, but after that first time, I use the neck size die. Lubrication is not needed with the neck size die so that makes the process easier and less messy.

There is lots of debate on both sides of the issue concerning accuracy with neck size vs. full length size. Personally, I cannot see any difference in accuracy. But then I rarely shoot groups on paper targets, most of my shooting is done with steel silhouettes.

Good luck.

> There is lots of debate on both sides of the issue concerning accuracy > with neck size vs. full length size. Personally, I cannot see any > difference in accuracy. But then I rarely shoot groups on paper > targets, most of my shooting is done with steel silhouettes.

Unless the case walls are *exactly* the same all the way round, then one side of the case wall must be thinner. When the round is fired, the case walls expand out to meet the walls of the chamber. If the case is thinner on one side, then that wall tends to expand more than the 'other side' and you end up with a banana shaped case. The next time the cartridge goes into the chamber (after reloading and neck sizing only) the bullet does not enter the bore square are so is less accurate. This isn't always so but it does explain why neck resizing is not always better than FL resizing.

There are neck sizing only dies available from all the major suppliers.

However, I suggest that you partial size with the regular full length sizer. To this, smoke a case neck then set the die so that it resizes about 90-95 percent of the neck. This reduces the body of the case slightly for easy rechambering.

When neck sized only, you MAY find, that after several firings, the case has grown in size so that difficult chambering will result. In a gun like the Contender, where there is no bolt assisted chambering, lock up will not be complete on these "grown" cases and misfires will occur.

If the same should occur after partial resizing with the full length sizer, tweak your die down just a schooch (1/16th of a turn at a time) until lockup and firing are again reliable. Lock your die at that point and it will probably never need be touched again. This approach has resulted in 100 percent reload reliability for my 7TCU and .35 Remington that initially caused me fits.

God Bless!

Norm

I _almost_ have my reloading area re-established; it's amazing how difficult it is to reclaim real estate in the basement once you have forfeited it! I formed my first couple of 7MM TCU cases last night. I have an (old cheap simple) Lyman Spartan press, and I was using new Remington 223 brass and a new RCBS die with a tapered expander plug.

I lightly brushed the inside of the case neck with graphite and then ran it in.

This was not a happy sensation. Each time, the press seemed to sort of stick, and then fairly suddenly with a "crunch" feel the ram would move. The cases actually look OK, but based upon feel I wonder if I should lube more or do something different.

What is forming these cases supposed to feel like? The only case forming that I've done before was 30-06 to 25-06, and it didn't have this feel (different operation, of course).

From meneelt@h01.pgh.wec.com

Well, no, I didn't lube the case body... but I didn't run it in hard; actually I haven't fully set up these dies yet, but I intend to neck size only. In any case I'm pretty sure that what I was feeling was just the expansion of the neck.

My "crunch" wasn't actually a sound, just the sensation in my hand. "A lot of resistance, then suddenly it is easy" would probably be an accurate description as well. Maybe I'm just worrying too much - maybe I'll try a little lube inside the case neck and just be happy that my cases look good.

From cenobite@welchlink.welch.jhu.edu

The Complete Reloading Manual for the T/C Contender, available everywhere, including Fox Ridge, has 25+ calibers listed. Unfortunately, they are not the factory loads, but rather a compilation of load data from different powder or bullet manufacturers. Still, it should be a good guide to what you should optimally expect from a factory load with the same bullet style/weight. Also, Lyman 47th has a section for the T/C and the XP100 at the end of its loads. If I'm not mistaken the 300 Whisper reloads are covered in this section. When all else fails, call the manufacturer of the ammo. 

From njohnson@nosc.mil

One of the problems encountered with the true wildcats is that there are no industry standards thus one is on his own in the development of loads for his particular system. If you are completely on your own (cannot copy loads from a shooter who safely uses the round) the only prudent starting point of which I am aware is the Powley Computor, an old and respected method of predicting pressures and velocities for given case volumes, bullet weights and BARREL LENGTHS.

I believe it is available from:

Homer Powley 27131 183rd Ave. Eldridge, IA 52748

I am under the impression that one of the ballistics programs has the Powley Computer has within it: W. W. Blackwell 9826 Sagedale Houston, TX 77089

God Bless!

Norm

From n2czf@gate.net

Loadbooks USA Inc. publishes a comprehensive book for the T/C, 308 pages to be exact! Included are 33 Calibers from .17 Bumble Bee to the .45-70 Govt. and claims to have 6,800 Proven and Tested Loads, I have not counted them by the way.

I bought mine at a gun show for $18 but I have seen them in catalogs since then for about $14. I really recommend this book for someone starting with the T/C and as a good general reference book. Much of what is in here will not be news to the more experienced reloaders but if you got a new caliber that is not a normal pistol round it is great place to start.

Loadbooks USA Inc. 28405 Sand Canyon Rd. Suite B Canyon Country, CA. 91351 (805) 250-8502

From: njohnson@nosc.mil (Norman F. Johnson

The Contender Loadbook is useful. However, if you are just looking for .45-70 loads guidance, as was I when I ordered it, do not bother. It has a few loads for the 300 gr. bullets - that's it! VERY disappointing!!!

I also wrote T/C and was equally disappointed - they referred me to manuals that I already had (for the Springfield and other weaker actions). I had already loaded beyond that with no problems so am still looking for practical upper limits for the .45- 70. I suppose that it does not matter anyway because my loads are, from a practical standpoint, recoil limited. That Contender really rails at heavier .45-70 loads.

God Bless!

Norm

From n2czf@gate.net

I am new to forming my own 7mm TCU cases but this is what I have done with no trouble so far.

I use Mineral Spirits in the cap of a 35mm Film container. Any small container will do and will probably last longer than the soft plastic. I have also received for Xmas a Midway Case prep box with some mica (MORE THAN ENOUGH!) and I have tried several rounds both ways. I have tried mica only, spirits only and a case neck dipped in spirits and then the mica. I have noticed no differences at all and out of 500 once fired .223 brass (xmas also) I only ended up with 7 split cases, not too bad at all.

Another idea from a friend of mine who is a gunsmith and reloader is STP of all things. His comment is he has used it for 20 years and is still on the same can!! I can't think of a cheaper way than that....

From: njohnson@nosc.mil (Norman F. Johnson

After twenty years of using Motor Honey for all of my sizing and case reforming tasks, my supply ran out. I switched from Motor Honey to STP and quickly switched back to Motor Honey after I pulled the head off of several .38 Special cases during my normal resizing routine. it simply is not as good a high pressure lubricant.

I have recommended STP here a number of times because it looks and feels so much like Motor Honey.

I WAS WRONG!!!

God Bless!

Norm