Topic:
DENTED PRIMER
Discussion:
From Jerry Alfaro
Does anyone have a phone number for customer
service at TC? I need to have them check my .35 Remington barrel to see
why it only fires about 50% of the time. Always dents the primer but half
don't go off. Seems I had this problem with my 7TCU. The problem wasn't
with the barrel but with the safety bar under the hammer not retracting
fully. This safety bar is a plate that sits under the hammer to keep the
gun from firing unless the trigger is pulled. So you don't shoot yourself
if you drop the gun. Same system as a Colt Anaconda. Seems those components
aren't finished really well and the safety bar that trips down as the trigger
is pulled was hanging up a bit. Nothing a little cleaning and polishing
didn't fix.
From Guido Lepore glepore@direct.ca
I believe this is a common problem with
the .35. I have heard various explanations including that factory loaded
.35's have "hard" primers because they are used in tube magazines. I have
just as much trouble with handloads in this barrel, however. I am thinking
of trying pistol primers instead of rifle but don't know for sure if this
will help. So far this has only happened at the bench, but this is my main
deer hunting gun and I am very nervous about it happening at the wrong
time. If TC can help please post. Good Luck
From jpkelly1@oeonline.com
Do you do your own reloading? I've had
similar problems myself and it was because I hadn't set the primer properly.
Do they fire the second time? If they do, its usually an indication that
the seating wasn't right in the first place.
From alfaro@tidcompo.llnl.gov jerry
After reading some of the threads about
35 Rem misfires, I thought I'd explain how I solved a similar problem with
my 30 Herrett not firing on the first snap. One of the problems was the
trigger adjustment was set to light not allowing the safety sear bar to
drop when the frame was closed. And second I was full length resizing my
brass every time. I backed my sizer die off .040" and what that did was
to drive the base of the case back so the head space was eliminated. To
date I have yet to have a misfire. Hope I've helped.
From Joel H. Blatt joelblatt@aol.com
MISFIRING PROBLEMS. I would suspect several
things, most probably (1) a weak hammer spring, (2) crud in the safety
block channel or (3) a worn, bent, or broken firing pin or a small buildup
of residue around the firing pin inside the housing that "buffered" it
and cause misfires (from Rick - ricpit@atl.mindspring.com). Less probable
would be (4) a bad adjustment on the safety block-trigger group or (5)
the barrel not locking up sufficiently to operate the interlock safety
(butterfly). An indication of problems (2), (4), or (5) are marks on the
safety block where it has stopped the hammer fall. Further diagnosis requires
a close examination of the hammer position and the unfired cartridge immediately
after the misfire. If the hammer is resting against the safety block then
the safety caused the misfire (there may also be a very shallow dent in
the primer). If the hammer is resting against the firing pin and the primer
or rimfire cartridge rim is dented then the problem is probably a weak
hammer spring. To test, compare the force necessary to cock the hammer
with that in another frame, or remove the hammer spring and compare it
with a new one - the "set" in a weak spring will be obvious. It also might
be very hard primers (CCI?) - try different primers, a case insufficiently
sized, a barrel chambered too deeply, a rimless cartridge either sized
too much, or failure to reliably fire military ammo in the T/C's SAAMI
commercial sized chamber. You could check the chambering with a different
barrel in the same caliber and a depth gage, or try commercial (not military)
ammunition.
Disclaimer:
I am not responsible for the use or misuse of this information. I
probably didn't even write this. These opinions are my own and are not
the opinions of my employer. He wouldn't write it either.
From alfaro@tidcompo.llnl.gov Jerry Alfaro
Another thing you can try is to seat your
bullet out until the ogive touches the groves of the barrel. This will
also force the case base back into the frame. Full length re-sizing will,
over a number of reloads stretch the case and worst scenario, cause case
separation. If you have backed your sizing die off .040" you should feel
a little resistance when snapping your frame closed. That will indicate
to you the shoulder is forcing the case back. I suggest you try doing this
first before buying a neck sizer die. I recommend that you keep a log of
exactly what changes you make when working your brass and loads. I have
found by doing this you can refer back to your notes and find where one
change has made the difference.
RCBS will make neck sizing dies for any
cartridge you need for a price. I purchased a neck sizer die for my 22-250
Ackley Improved from RCBS last year and the cost was around $52.00.
Hornady makes a neck only sized die that
will work for a variety of cartridges of the same caliber. (They won't
work on short cases such as 30 & 357 Herrett.) I have one in 22 and
30 caliber and they work pretty well. My only grip about them is the compression
adjustment they use for the expander ball. It has a tendency to slip when
extracting the case. I use a silicone powder to help the extraction problem.
Another comment I read was about the firing
pins possibly being bad on the frame. Possible, but I don't really think
the pin is the problem. The only problem I've only heard about from someone
else was a problem with the old style hammer you switch with a screw driver.
The pin that drives the firing pin into the primer was to short. This caused
the firing pin not to travel far enough forward to make the primmer ignite.
On your earlier post I believe you said
you do not reload, I highly recommend that you consider learning and, purchase
equipment even if it's used.
Hope you can use the information to eliminate
those "clicks"... |